Monday, August 30, 2010

Quilting the Chanel Jacket panels

Only knowing that you're supposed to quilt the two-layer fabric panels but not knowing HOW, I made up my own method:
1. Pin lining and fashion fabric together through the center and around the edges to avoid slippage.
2. Use a walking foot (in my case, a 'multi-layer foot').
3. Start quilting at the center and then alternate stitching the quilting lines on both sides of that center line. Stitch in the same direction each time - don't go back and forth.

I'm glad that I started with the side backs. My fabric warp threads are so multi-colored  and nubby that my initial panel has significantly wandering quilting lines since I didn't mark it. So for the second panel, I ran a white basting thread through the center to follow.

This is the first panel quilted - lining side up - and my white basting thread in panel #2.  That did make a difference. It was also easier if I just kept going and watched slightly forward of where I was sewing. That seemed to keep me on track.

TOTAL TIME for first two panels -- 1 1/2 hours (including 15 minutes to figure out the walking foot!)

Saturday, August 28, 2010

Wow -- I'm back!!!

So -- can you spell 'PROCRASTINATE'? Let me tell you how many ways I found to avoid working on this:
1. Did the muslin and it didn't fit. I wanted to find the perfect way to alter the muslin, so I read more books.
2. Couldn't find the right trim. Chanel jackets must have the correct trim, and first I tried pulling threads from the fabric, then I looked around for just the right color, etc. 

So...now I'm back. I think what really got me going was the awareness that this was a fall/winter jacket and I'd better get moving or it would be next spring!

Here's what I did last weekend: I finally got the muslin to fit (not too hard -- basically I undid some additions I made to the pattern and everything else just about fell into place. (Note to self -- just start with Vogue size 10 petite and leave it alone!)

Then, I cut out 'panels' for each pattern piece -- true Chanel has lining and fashion fabric cit together as one. they are 'quilted' together before cutting out, and need large seams 'just in case'. So, for my 6-inch side back I have a 10-inch panel.

I read about someone who just used selvages for trim, so I cut mine that way just in case!










Total time for this part: 2 HOURS  (we won't count the procrastination hours.....)